http://shafiuldu.blogspot.com/ Shafiul Azam

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Tobacco/ Cigarette Industry in Bangladesh (সিগারেট খাতের বর্তমান অবস্থা)



13.1.1 History:

Tobacco has been smoked for at least the last three thousand years. Christopher Columbus found it when he landed in the Americas in 1492, but ancient temple carvings show tobacco being smoked in Central America as long ago as 1,000 BC.

Ever since it arrived in Europe in the late 15th century, tobacco has divided opinion, sparked controversy and generated substantial revenue through tax. Tracking its heritage back to a joint venture formed by the Imperial Tobacco Company of the United Kingdom and the American Tobacco Company of the USA in 1902, today’s British American Tobacco (a pioneer and leading multinational cigarette manufacturer) was born on the world stage.

13.1.2. Tobacco industry in Bangladesh:

In Indian sub-continent British American Tobacco Bangladesh (BATB) is the number one tobacco company in tobacco industry of Bangladesh. It has been dominating as the unique market leader for nearly a century. It was only possible because of its effective practices of management processes.

According to a research in December 23, 2009, the total smokers in Bangladesh are 20.3 million. Global Adult Tobacco Survey (GATS) and Bangladesh report 2009 mentioned the number of smokers in Bangladesh more than 15 years are 43.3 percent. The cigarette industry is growing at a rate of 3.4%. The Biri market which was 70.3% of the total market is declining, now it is 69%.


The smokers are upgrading from biri to low segment of cigarettes. The number of tobacco user is higher in rural area than urban area. The market share of BATB is around 44% in the Dhaka Metro.

Besides BATB, the other companies in the same industries are: Dhaka Tobacco Company, Alpha Tobacco Company, Sonali Tobacco, Abul Khair Group, Nasir Gold Tobacco, Imperial Tobacco etc.

Cigarette industries follow different segments for marketing and satisfying customers. There are three market segments in tobacco industry- premium, medium and the lower segments. Not all the companies in tobacco industry cover these segments. Dhaka Tobacco covers the premium and lower segments, Sonali Tobacco, Abul Khaier Tobacco and Alpha Tobacco operates in the lower segments of the tobacco industries. Only BATB operates in all the segments of the market. In every segment there are various brands which may cause the brand dilution and at the same time the brand switching can occur.

Brands are names which give a reliance of quality product. As the customers’ taste varies and also the price of a product is a vital matter the segment and brands are different. One common characteristic is in every segment the different brands are almost at the same prices. The operative brands in Bangladesh tobacco industries are given below.

Segments
BATB
Dhaka Tobacco
Abul Khair Tobacco
Sonali Tobacco
Premium
B & H- Regular and Light
Marlboro
N/A
N/A
Medium

JPGL - Regular and Light, PALL
MALL
Castle

N/A
N/A
Lower
Star, Capstan, Scissors, Pilot, Gold
Flake
Navy, Gold Mine,
Sheikh, K2.

Marise, Gold
Life, Tope 10.

Sunmun,
Gold Hill.


Water transpotations industry


13.1 INDUSTRY:
With some 700 rivers and tributaries crisscrossing the country, Bangladesh has one of the largest inland waterway networks in the world. Inland ports handle about 40 percent of the nations foreign trade. The network, which shrinks during the dry season, connects almost all the countrys major cities, towns, and commercial centers. Inland water transportation is often the only mode that serves the poor, proving especially useful during periods of widespread flooding.

River or lake cargo operations are an important source of transportation facilitating trade across the length and breadth of the country. A majority of the districts in Bangladesh have river facilities, which makes transportation a possibility in most months of the year. River transport is used mostly to transport dense cargo such as fertilizers, bricks, sand, mortar, coal, sand, cement clinkers and food grains. Further fuel products such as Diesel, Gasoline and Kerosene are transported in barges to fuel depots located within the vicinity of the ports. Cost of transporting cargo through river ports is cheaper as compared to road and rail transport which makes river transportation the most suitable form of transportation for dense cargo.


13.1.1 History:
The use of waterways by merchandised vessels in Bangladesh began more than 150 years ago. Lord William Bentinck was the name of the first inland steamer vessel that propelled in the river Ganges in 1834. The steamer was owned by the Govt. The India General Navigation and Railway Company Ltd. (IGNR), the first inland steamer company was floated on February 6, 1844. During the later part of Nineteenth Century (1880-1899) as many as 898 vessels used to play the route from Calcutta to Khulna through the Sunderbans per annum which rose to 4,803 in numbers in the first quarter of twentieth century.

To set up Authority for development, maintenance and control of inland water transport and of certain inland navigable waterways the then East Pakistan Government on 31st October 1958 promulgated an ordinance called the East Pakistan Inland water Transport Authority Ordinance 1958 (E.P. Ordinance, NO LXXV of 1958). On November 4, 1958 the Government by an order constituted a three member Authority of East Pakistan Inland Water Transport Authority (EPIWTA). The BIWTA came in to existence on promulgation of the above ordinance 1958 as the successor of the former EPIWTA. An advisory committee has subsequently been constituted to advise the authority in respect of all matters related to development, maintenance and operation of inland water transport and of inland waterways in Bangladesh.

Bangladesh has about 24,000 km. of rivers, streams and canals that together cover about 7% of the country's surface. Most part of the country is linked by a complex network of waterways which reaches its extensive size in the monsoon period. Out of 24,000 km. of rivers, streams and canals only about 5,968 km. is navigable by mechanized vessels during monsoon period which shrinks to about 3,865 k.m. during dry period. The Inland water Transport (IWT) sector carries over 50% of all arterial freight traffic and one quarter of all passenger traffic.

13.1.2. Status of inland waterways

The waterways of Bangladesh have been classified into four categories depending on least available depth (LAD) ranging from 3.90 m to 1.50m. The detail is mentioned bellow:

Name of Route
Minimum Depth
Length of Route and Percentage
Minimum
Vertical Clearance
Minimum Horizontal
Clearance
Class- I
3.66 m
683 km (11.39%)
18.30 m
76.22 m
Class- II
2.13 m
1,027 km (17.13%)
12.20 m
76.22 m
Class -III
1.52 m
1,885 km (31.44%)
7.62 m
30.48 m
Class -IV
Less than 1.52 m
2,400 km (40.04%)
5.00 m
20.00 m
Total
5,995 km (100%)




Ship Breaking industry in Bangladesh:

Ship Breaking industry in Bangladesh:
Ship breaking is the process of dismantling an obsolete vessels structure for scrapping or disposal. Conducted on a dismantling yard, it involves a wide range of activities. From removing all the gear and equipment that are on the ships to cutting down and recycling the ships infrastructure. Ship breaking is a challenging process, due to the structural complexity of the ships and the environmental, safety and health issues involved. Due to cheaper labor costs and fewer health and safety regulations that have to be followed, the developing world hosts the vast majority of ship breaking efforts.
Until the 1960s, ship breaking was considered a highly mechanized operation, concentrated in industrialized countries - mainly in the United States, United Kingdom, Germany and Italy.
From early 1980s to maximize profits ship owners sent their vessels to the scrap yards of India, China, Pakistan, Bangladesh, the Philippines and Vietnam where pay, health and safety standards are minimal and workers are desperate for work. It is estimated that over 100,000 workers are employed at ship breaking yards worldwide. Of the approximate 45,000 ocean-going ships in the world about 700 are taken out of service every year. At the end of their sailing life, ships are sold so that the valuable steel - about 95% of ships mass can be reused.
Ship breaking activities in Bangladesh is concentrated in Staked (Bhatia to Bewail), just north of Chittagong city on the Bay of Bengal. It is of paramount importance to the macro and micro economies of poverty stricken Bangladesh. Ship breaking activities present both challenges and opportunities for our coastal zone management. Meeting the increasing demand for raw materials such as steel needs to be balanced with the negative impact this activity is having on our coastal environment and the conditions of the workers.
Some of the worlds largest decommissioned ships are today scraped at the shores north of Chittagong, which is the second largest city and major sea port in the country. Environmental policies and laws were not enforced, labor salaries were among the lowest in the world and there were no standards for occupational health and labor safety. Obviously there were plenty of opportunities to exploit people and the environment when moving forward with the ship breaking business.
Ship breaking on the beach, which already at that time was prohibited in most countries, could be done in Bangladesh without any concern. Poverty and millions of people without education were looking for livelihood opportunities. They provided cheap and exploitable human man power needed for the ship breaking industry. No major investments were required for engaging in ship breaking. The present type of ship breaking in Bangladesh just require a large winch, some blowtorches and maybe a bulldozer. Rest of the operation is just raw human man power. Labor is extremely cheap, environmental and labor standards are loosely applied and no pre-cleaning of the ships are required for entering the ship breaking beach in Chittagong.
Ship breaking is therefore a lucrative business with few risks for the yard owners, investors and money lenders. The ship breaking industry in Bangladesh is estimated worth an annual turnover of around 1.5 billion dollars.
Some of the ships are 350 meter long with a weight up to 10-15.000 tons. It is estimated that app. 30 percent of the worlds Light Displacement Tones (LDT) were scrapped in Bangladesh during the period 2000-2010.
Bangladesh was the top ship recycling nation from 2004-2009. Bangladesh became the second in 2012, scrapping around 270 ships. Bangladesh dismantling 210 ships in 2013 became the third largest ship breaking nation in the world.
History
The ship breaking industry started its operations in the 1960s when a Greek ship MD Alpine was stranded on the shores of Sitakund, Chittagong after a severe cyclone. The ship remained there for a long time before the Chittagong Steel House brought the vessel and scrapped it.
During the Liberation War in 1971, a Pakistani ship Al Abbas was damaged by bombing. It was later salvaged and brought to the Fauzdarhat seashore. In 1974, Karnafully Metal Works Ltd bought it as scrap, introducing commercial ship breaking in Bangladesh. The industry flourished during the 1980s. Today it has become large and profitable industry for Bangladesh.
Socio-economic profile of ship breaking activities
Most of the ship breaking workers come from the poverty stricken northern region of Bangladesh where there are limited employment opportunities. Usually, the workers are not given an appointment letter and there is no formal contract between the employer and the employee. Workers have been unable to enforce their right to permanent and secure employment as they are unable to demonstrate an employment relationship exist between the yard owners and themselves. Their wages depend on the number of hours worked as well as the type of work and skill level. They have no entitlement to overtime, sick or annual leave. Their wages range from 85-180 taka.
It was found that majority of the labor (40.75%) are between the ages of 18-22 years old. Only 1.13% of labor is between 46-60 years old. One of the most disturbing findings was that child labor (under the age of 18) made up 10.94% of the workforce. 46.42% of yard workers are illiterate while 43.02% attained primary school education. There are no arrangements for pure drinking water, healthy food, hygienic toilets and living conditions for the workers. It was observed that 86.44% of the labor force stated that they received no medical facilities from the ship yard owners, 5.93% said they received medical facilities, 4.15% said they got medical facilities but in a nominal way or by way of first aid treatment and 1.69% stated sometimes they got medical facilities and sometimes not. As the government has not recognized it as an industry, the industry based labor laws (for example the Factory Act 1965) do not apply. Though the workers have been working in the scrap yards for years they are not allowed to form or join a trade union to bargain and enforce their rights. The workers are deprived of proper compensation due to the lack of a valid contract. In order to maximize profits little is done to minimize the risk of accidents (Source: YPSA's baseline survey).
Ship breaking accidents happens every now and then while dismantling, due to mishandling of processes and not knowing if any flammable chemicals are stocked inside or the flaming materials or conditions that ill trained welding mechanics never know, as a result many explosions have killed so many workers in the history of ship breaking. This is so, as proprietors are looking for cheaper ways to accomplish the job, by the way, families, rather than public companies run the majority of firms. Again the victims of accidents in most of the time are not reported to police (or polices have illicit link ups with the industry- cynic comment!) for record, so actual number of victims would be never known, nor the right compensations are paid to the workers family. So, in the one hand environment or macro level negative impacts we are getting on the other hand, micro level or individual level workers are not getting any good return out of it nor their rights are protected by the industry owners. Should government avoid its role in it? Obviously not, that morality presses the government to oblige to the workers rights and environmental impacts.  Ship breaking pollutes the sea, oceanic ecology, fisheries as planktons are destroyed and poisonous substances pollute water, beaches and bio-diversity affected badly. Time has come to assess the cost benefit of the industry.
Since then the business has been slightly declining due to the global recession and more strict enforcement of national laws and regulations. But the business is now picking up again, and the number of ship yards increases year by year. Ship breaking generates a lot of jobs, and it is estimated that some 50000 people are directly employed in the ship breaking industry in Bangladesh. Additionally, another 100000 are indirectly involved in the business. Most of the laborers are hired by the ship yards through local contractors on a ship by ship basis.
A laborer earns around 1-3 dollars per day depending on the type of work. Some 300-500 people are typically employed on a temporary basis for dismantling a ship, and many more are employed in downstream activities for recycling of all kind of materials from the ships. Some of the recycled materials are exported, and the rest is sold off and reused in Bangladesh. A lot of the materials are of high value to the local economy. In particular, recycling of steel for producing iron rods for construction, plates for new ships or for many other purposes is a lucrative business.
Up to 60 percent of the steel used in Bangladesh is believed to originate from the ship breaking yards in Chittagong. It is estimated that there are around 100 ship breaking yards along the coast north of Chittagong, and every year new yards are being constructed. The ship yards are owned by politicians and business people.
A ship breaker typically buy a ship to be scrapped for around 4-10 million dollars depending on the size and quality of the ship. The purchase of a ship is often done through a middleman, who links the local buyers with the international sellers. The ship breaker takes a loan in a local bank often with a high interest rate, and the full loan is repaid in six months time when the ship is completely ripped apart and all the scrap is sold to international and national buyers. Outdated and scrapped ships, which previously where a liability, is now a great asset.
Working in the ship breaking yards is a very dangerous job, which involves many human health risks. Sometimes gases explode killing workers. It also happens that workers are crushed by tumbling or falling steel parts. Sometimes workers fall from the high sides of ships on which they are working without safety harnesses. Many of the oxyacetylene cutters work without goggles. Few wear shoes, let alone protective clothing. Local organizations in Bangladesh estimate that some 1000-2000 workers have died in the last 30 years, and many more have suffered serious injuries. General health statistics show that the percentage of people with disabilities in the Chittagong area is above average for the country as a whole, because many workers have lost limbs or got other disabilities from working in the ship breaking yards.
The laborers lack basic equipment. When a new ship arrives, there are containers, chambers and tanks, which contain oil, petroleum and poisonous gases. One method used for checking the level of danger in these parts of the ship is to lower down chickens in a string to check whether there are dangerous gases. If the chickens survive, the first workers will enter to clean for oil, petroleum and other flammable substances. The flammable substances are often burned off before the cutters enter to rip the ship apart. Gas explosions are a common phenomenon.
It is estimated that half of the workers are under 22 years and nearly half of them are illiterate. Some believe that up to around 20 percent of the total work force consist of children. The workers are poor and they have no other alternatives for supporting themselves and their families than to work in the ship breaking yards. There are often no other job alternatives for them. The workers do not know much about rules and regulations on basic occupational health standards and safety. The laborers or their families are poorly compensated when injured or killed.
The Law exists
Labor Law Act 2006 has provisions on working conditions, health and safety, hours, leave and compensation. However, enforcement and compliance is almost nonexistent. There is a lack political will and resources on the Government side while the owner's see no reason to comply.
The Government of Bangladesh has recently introduced new national policies and legislation to improve the environmental and occupational health and safety standards in the ship breaking yards. But there is a long way to go. Governance is poor, and enforcement of policies and laws is often non-existent. Politicians and decision makers have vested interests in the industry, and corruption is wide spread making it difficult to enforce rules and regulations.
Benefits from Ship breaking
Ship breaking plays an important role in the national economy for a number of reasons:
1. Production of steel:
The scrapping of ships provides the countrys main source of steel and in doing so saves substantial amount of money in foreign exchange by reducing the need to import steel materials.
At present Bangladesh has a demand for 50, 0000 tons of metal / steels, but Bangladesh has no iron ore sources or mines, which make ship scrapping is the inevitable and important source of raw materials.
More than 350 re-rolling mills have been using ship scraps as their raw materials. The industry is currently supplying more than 60 per cent of the raw materials for local steel industry. Besides, local shipbuilding industry also largely depends on this as raw materials mostly are being used from scrap steel.
A good number of local industries including heavy and light engineering already been developed depending on ship breaking industry
2. In some ways it can be considered a green industry. Almost everything on the ship and the ship itself is recycled, reused and resold. The scrapping of ships supplies raw materials to steel mills, steel plate re-manufacturing, asbestos re-manufacturing as well as providing furniture, paint, electrical equipment and lubricants, oil to the number of businesses that have sprouted up specifically as a result.
3. It generates large amounts of revenue for various Government authorities through the payment of taxes. Every year the Government collects 1000, 00, 00,000 Taka in revenue from the ship breaking industry through import duty, yards tax and other taxes.
4. Employment. Despite the conditions that the workers are employed under, this is an industry that employs more than 50,000 people directly while another 0.1 million people are involved indirectly. It provides employment for some of the poorest people from the north of Bangladesh who would otherwise have no employment.


Industry Analysis on Textile Industry

Industry Analysis on Textile Industry:
AFTER the Rana Plaza clothing factory near Dhaka collapsed in April, killing at least 1,100 people, the big Western clothing companies that have their garments run up in Bangladesh came under pressure to intervene more forcefully to improve safety and working conditions in the workshops they buy from. Two groups of retailers and fashion brands, one mainly North American and one mainly European, have begun implementing new monitoring schemes. On October 24th Primark, a big British retailer, said it would extend for another three months the aid it is giving to families affected by the disaster, while it works on a long-term compensation scheme.
Meanwhile, the tragedies continue: earlier this month ten people died when another factory in the Bangladeshi capital, used by big foreign clothes retailers, went up in flames. Nevertheless, it has become clearer since Rana Plaza that the clothing firms have little option but to continue sending work to Bangladesh. It will remain Asias primary production base outside China for cheap clobber, with exports on track to rise by a fifth, to $24 billion, in the current fiscal year.
The countrys clothing industry has the advantage of scale: it has 5,000 factories, compared with 2,500 in Indonesia and 2,000 in Vietnam. Its labor costs less than any of its Asian rivals: even a near tripling in the minimum wage, to $100 a month, as garment workers are demanding from the government, would not change this. And unlike clothes put together in China, India and Sri Lanka, those stitched in Bangladesh enjoy duty-free access to the European Union.
Such is the growth in demand for cheap wear that Bangladeshs clothing industry is forecast to quadruple in size over the next 20 years. It already employs 4m, mostly women, in a country with 31m households. Unless productivity raises sharply, millions more women will be drawn from their homes into the workplace, a drastic change in a conservative society.
Although output is booming, profitability has slumped. In the past five years the price of the average garment has fallen by 12% in local-currency terms. In that period the factory owners return on investment has plunged from an average of 50% to 20%, estimates Forrest Cookson, an American economist and expert on the Bangladeshi economy. That still sounds good but capital is costly. To get money from domestic banks, palms have to be greased, so textile firms in effect borrow at around 18%.
So, despite the prospect of years of further growth to come, some local factory owners are talking of selling up. A recent surge in Bangladeshis buying homes abroad is perhaps a sign that some of the families that control the clothing business are preparing an exit. Others are getting money out by under invoicing foreign sales and keeping the difference abroad.
If the government forces the factory owners to increase pay (an election is coming, so it may well do so), they will be even less willing and able to invest in making their premises less hazardous. The most promising way to make the countrys clothing industry both safer and more profitable is to boost productivity and output at the larger and generally better-run factories, and drive the smaller, dodgier ones out of business.
This, broadly, is the objective of Tau Investment Management, a New Yorkbased firm which seeks capitalist solutions to capitalisms failures. It wants to inject up to $50m in each of a number of big factories, to sort out their safety, environmental, labor and efficiency problems. It hopes foreign clothes firms will flock to these high-quality suppliers, leaving the rest to wither away. A commendable idea, but a risky and expensive one.

The textile and clothing (T&C) industries provide the single source of economic growth in Bangladesh's rapidly developing economy. Exports of textiles and garments are the principal source of foreign exchange earnings. Agriculture for domestic consumption is Bangladeshs largest employment sector. By 2002 exports of textiles, clothing, and ready-made garments (RMG) accounted for 77% of Bangladeshs total merchandise exports. By 2013, about 4 million people, mostly women, worked in Bangladesh's $19 billion-a-year industry, export-oriented ready-made garment (RMG) industry. Bangladesh is second only to China, the world's second-largest apparel exporter of western brands. Sixty percent of the export contracts of western brands are with European buyers and about forty percent with American buyers. Only 5% of textile factories are owned by foreign investors, with most of the production being controlled by local investors.
Bangladesh's textile industry has been part of the trade versus aid debate. The encouragement of the garment industry of Bangladesh as an open trade regime is argued to be a much more effective form of assistance than foreign aid. Tools such as quotas through the WTO Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC) and Everything but Arms (EBA) and the US 2009 Tariff Relief Assistance in the global clothing market have benefited entrepreneurs in Bangladesh's ready-made garments (RMG) industry. Bangladesh, with a population of about 156 million, is among the most densely populated countries in the world. In 2012 the textile industry accounted for 45% of all industrial employment in the country yet only contributed 5% of the Bangladesh's total national income.
From 1947 to 1971 the textile industry, like most industries in East Pakistan, were largely owned by West Pakistanis. During that period, in the 1960s, local Bengali entrepreneurs had set up their own large textile and jute factories. Following its separation from East Pakistan the newly formed Bangladesh lost access to both capital and technical expertise.
Until the liberation of Bangladesh in 1971, the textile sector was primarily part of the process of import substitution industrialization (ISI) to replace imports. After the liberation, Bangladesh adopted export-oriented industrialization (EOI) by focusing on the textile and clothing industry, particularly the readymade garment (RMG) sector. Immediately after the founding of Bangladesh (1971), tea and jute were the most export-oriented sectors. But with the constant threat of flooding, declining jute fiber prices and a significant decrease in world demand, the contribution of the jute sector to the countrys economy deteriorated.
In 1972 the newly formed government of Sheikh Mujibur Rahman who was also the head of the Awami League, enacted the Bangladesh Industrial Enterprises (Nationalization) Order, taking over privately owned textile factories and creating a state-owned enterprise (SOE) called Bangladesh Textile Mills Corporation (BTMC). President Rahman promoted democracy and a socialist form of capitalism. The BTMC never managed to match the pre-1971 output and in every year after the 19751976 fiscal years, lost money. Until the early 1980s the state owned almost all spinning mills in Bangladesh and 85 percent the textile industry's assets (not including small businesses).[7] Under the 1982 New Industrial Policy (NPI) a large number of these assets including jute mills and textile mills were privatized and returned to their original owners.
In the devastating famine in 1974, one million people died, mainly of starvation caused in part by the flooding of the Brahmaputra River in 1974, and a steep rise in the price of rice. Partly in response to the economic and political repercussions of the famine, the Bangladesh government shifted public policy away from its concentration on a socialist economy, and began to denationalize, disinvest and reduce the role of the public sector in the textile industry while encouraging private sector participation. The 1974 New Investment Policy restored the rights to both private and foreign investors. Bangladesh's development model switched from a state-sponsored capitalist mode of industrial development with mainly state-owned enterprises (SOE) to private sector-led industrial growth.

Starting in 1974 the Multi-Fiber Arrangement (MFA) in the North American market ensured that trade in textiles and garments remained the most regulated in the world. Among other things the MFA set quotas on garments exports from the newly industrializing countries of Asia. Entrepreneurs from quota-restricted countries like South Korea began "quota hopping" seeking quota-free countries that could become quota-free manufacturing sites. The export-oriented readymade garment (RMG) industry emerged at this time. Daewoo of South Korea was an early entrant in Bangladesh, when it established a joint venture in December 27, 1977 with Desh Garments Ltd. making it the first export oriented ready-made garment industry in Bangladesh. After only one year in which 130 Desh supervisors and managers received free training from Daiwoo in production and marketing at Daiwoo's state-of-the-art ready-made garment (RMG) plant in Korea, 115 of the 130 left Desh Garments Ltd. and set up separate private garment export firms or began working for other newly formed export-oriented RMG companies with new garment factories in Bangladesh for much higher salaries than Desh Garments Ltd offered.
Global restructuring processes, including two non-market factors, such as quotas under Multi Fibre Arrangement (MFA) (19742005) in the North American market and preferential market access to European markets, led to the "emergence of an export-oriented garment industry in Bangladesh in the late 1970s" and ensured the garment sectors continual success.
The garment industry in Bangladesh became the main export sector and a major source of foreign exchange starting in 1980, and exported about $5 billion USD in 2002. In 1980 an export processing zone was officially established in at the port of Chittagong.
By 1981, 300 textile companies, many small ones had been denationalized often returned to their original owners.  In 1982, shortly after coming to power following a bloodless coup, President Hussain Muhammad Ershad introduced the New Industrial Policy (NPI), most significant move in the privatization process, which denationalized much of the textile industry, created export processing zones (EPZs) and encouraged direct foreign investment. Under the New Industrial Policy (NPI) 33 jute mills and 27 textile mills were returned to their original owners.
The export of ready-made garments (RMG) increased from $USD 3.5 million in 1981 to $USD 10.7 billion in 2007. Apparel exports grew, but initially, the ready-made garments RMG industry was not adequately supported by the growth up and down the domestic supply chain (e.g., spinning, weaving, knitting, fabric processing, and the accessories industries).
From 1995 to 2005 the WTO Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC) was in effect, wherein more industrialized countries consented to export fewer textiles while less industrialized countries enjoyed increased quotas for exporting their textiles. Throughout the 10-year agreement, Bangladeshs economy benefited from quota-free access to European markets and desirable quotas for the American and Canadian markets.
As the above table shows, the market shares for Bangladeshi textiles in the USA and both textiles and clothing in the European Union have changed during the time period of the ATC.
Until FY 1994, Bangladesh's ready-made garments (RMG) industry was mostly dependent on imported fabrics - the Primary Textile Sector (PTS) was not producing the necessary fabrics and yarn.
Since the early 1990s, the knit section expanded mainly producing and exporting shirts, T-shirts, trousers, sweaters and jackets. In 2006, 90 percent of Bangladesh's total earnings from garment exports came from its exports to the United States and Europe.
Although there was concern, noted in an IMF report, that the WTO's Multi Fibre Arrangement, the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC), phase-out would shut down the textile and clothing (T&C) industry, the Bangladesh textile sector actually grew tremendously after 2004 and reached an export turnover of US$10.7 billion in FY 2007. Bangladesh was expected to suffer the most from the ending of the MFA, as it was expected to face more competition, particularly from China. However, this was not the case. It turns out that even in the face of other economic giants, Bangladeshs labor is cheaper than anywhere else in the world. While some smaller factories were documented making pay cuts and layoffs, most downsizing was essentially speculative the orders for goods kept coming even after the MFA expired. In fact, Bangladesh's exports increased in value by about $500 million in 2006.
By 2005 the ready-made garments (RMG) industry was the only multi-billion-dollar manufacturing and export industry in Bangladesh, accounting for 75 per cent of the country's earnings in that year.
Bangladesh's export trade is dominated by the ready-made garments (RMG) industry. Bangladeshs garment exports mainly to the US and Europe make up nearly 80% of the countrys export income. Exports of textiles, clothing, and ready-made garments (RMG) accounted for 77% of Bangladeshs total merchandise exports in 2002.
Textile exports from Bangladesh to the United States did increase by 10% in 2009.
Currently, the textile mills provide 70% of national exports. This proportion is even higher in Bangladesh. In Bangladesh, the number of employed workers in the textile industry increased by 400 000 in 1990 to 2 million in 2004, and the number of enterprises from 800 to 4000. Nine out of ten people employed in the industry are women. In general, the state of the textile industry depends on well-being of 10-12 million people in Bangladesh. By IMF estimates, as a result of the abolition of quota exports of Bangladesh will be reduced by 25%.

Of the millions of wage earning children in Bangladesh in 1990, almost all of them worked in the ready-made garment (RMG) industry. Based on the Bangladesh Bureau of Statistics Labor Force Survey estimated there were about 5.7 million 10 to 14 years-old children engaged in child labor. This number may have been as high as 15 million children. In 1993 employers in Bangladesh' ready-made garment (RMG) industry dismissed 50,000 children (c. 75 percent of child workers in the textile industry) out of fear of economic reprisals of the imminent passage of the Child Labor Deterrence Act (the Harkin Bill after Senator Tom Harkin, one of the US Senators who proposed the bill). The act which banned "importation to the United States of products which are manufactured or mined in whole or in part by children" would have resulted in the loss of lucrative American contracts. Its impact on Bangladesh's economy would have been significant as the export-oriented ready-made garment industry represents most of the country's exports.

The results of surveys varied on the demographics and size of the ready-made garments industry at the time of the Harkin Bill. One study estimated that there were 600,000 workers in the industry. BGMEA estimate was c. 800,000. The Asian-American Free Labor Institute (AAFLI) reported that in 1994 females constituted about "90 percent of all adult workers, and roughly 60 percent of all child workers."

By 2001 the textile industry employed about 3 million workers of whom 90% are women. By 2013, there were approximately 5,000 garment factories, employing about 4 million people, mostly women, part of Bangladesh's $19 billion-a-year industry, export-oriented ready-made garment (RMG) industry. Bangladesh is second only to China, the world's second-largest apparel exporter of western brands. Sixty percent of the export contracts of western brands are with European buyers and about forty percent with the American buyers. It has been a major source of employment for rural migrant women in a country that has increasingly limited rural livelihood options, and where women migrants have been largely excluded from formal work in the cities.

The structure of gender participation underwent a major shift with the rise of the ready-made garment industry in Bangladesh. Traditionally the participation of women in Bangladesh's formal economy was minimal. Bangladesh's flagship export-oriented ready-made garment industry, however, with female labor accounting for 90 percent of the work force, was "built to a large extent, on the supply of cheap and flexible female labor in the country."

According to a New York Times journalist by August 2012 the garment or textile industry which exports worth $18 billion a year, accounted for "80 percent of manufacturing exports and more than three million jobs" with predictions by McKinsey & Company of the industry tripling in size by 2020 (McKinsey 2001:10).
According to the 2014 Bureau of International Labor Affairs report on goods produced by child labor or forced labor, the Bangladeshi garments and textile industry still employs underage children [30] as effective governmental measures are taking considerable time to be implemented.
Compliance

Five deadly incidents from November 2012 through May 2013 brought worker safety and labor violations in Bangladesh to world attention putting pressure on big global clothing brands such as Primark, Loblaw, Joe Fresh, Gap, Walmart, Nike, Tchibo, Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger, and retailers to respond by using their economic weight to enact change. No factory owner has ever been prosecuted over the deaths of workers. Other major fires 1990 and 2012, resulting in hundreds of accidental deaths, included those at That's It Sportswear Limited and the fire at Tazreen Fashions Ltd. Spectrum Sweater Industries, Phoenix Garments, Smart Export Garments, Garib and Garib, Matrix Sweater, KTS Composite Textile Mills and Sun Knitting. Major foreign buyers looking for outsourcing demand compliance-related norms and standards regarding a safe and healthy work environment which includes fire-fighting equipment, evacuation protocols and mechanisms and appropriate installation of machines in the whole supply-chain. RMG insiders in Bangladesh complain about the pressure to comply and argue that RMG factory owners are hampered by a shortage of space in their rental units. In spite of this the industry exports totaled $19 billion in 2011-2012. They expected export earnings to increase to $23 billion in 2012-2013.

Two dozen factory owners are also Members of Parliament in Bangladesh.

Scott Nova of the Worker Rights Consortium, a rights advocacy group, claimed that auditors, some of whom were paid by the factories they inspect, sometimes investigated workers right issues such as hours or child labor but did not properly inspect factories structural soundness or fire safety violations. Nova argued that the cost of compliance to safety standards in all 5,000 clothing factories in Bangladesh is about $3 billion (2013).

In 2000 garment entrepreneurs had a reputation for shirking custom duties, evading corporate taxes, remaining absent in capital markets, avoiding social projects such as education, healthcare, and disaster relief but, argued authors Quddus and Salim, these entrepreneurs took the risks needed to build the industry. Bangladesh successfully competes in the manufacturing industry by maintaining "lowest labor costs in the world." Garment workers' minimum wage was set at roughly $37 a month in 2012 but since 2010 Bangladesh's double-digit inflation with no corresponding rise in minimum wage and labor rights, has led to protests.

A fire broke out on 24 November 2012, in the Tazreen Fashion factory in Dhaka killing 117 people and injuring 200. It was the deadliest factory fire in the history of Bangladesh.[36] According to the New York Times, Walmart played a significant role in blocking reforms to have retailers pay more for apparel in order to help Bangladesh factories improve safety standards. Walmart director of ethical sourcing, Sridevi Kalavakolanu, asserted that the company would not agree to pay the higher cost, as such improvements in electrical and fire safety in the 4,500 factories would be a "very extensive and costly modification" and that "it is not financially feasible for the brands to make such investments."

On April 24, 2013 over 1045 textile workers factories making clothes for Western brands, were killed when a garment factory collapsed. The Savar building collapse was in the Rana Plaza complex, in Savar, an industrial corner 20 miles northwest of Dhaka, the capital of Bangladesh. It was the "world's deadliest industrial accident since the Bhopal disaster in India in 1984.[38] While some 2,500 were rescued from the rubble including many who were injured, the total number of those missing remained unknown weeks later.[38] The eight-story building, owned by Sohel Rana, associated with the ruling Awami League, was constructed on a "pond filled with sand". It only had planning approval for five floors.[39] Owners used "shoddy building materials, including substandard rods, bricks and cement, and did not obtaining the necessary clearances." An engineer raised safety concerns after noticing cracks in the Rana Plaza complex the day before its collapse. In spite of this factories stayed open to fill overdue orders. When generators were restarted after a power blackout the building caved in. Six garment factories also in Rana Plaza were cleared to re-open on May 9, 2013 after inspectors allegedly issued safety certificates. Nine people were arrested including four factory owners, the owner of the complex and the engineer who warned of the crack in the building.

Immediately following the April 24 deadly industrial accident, Mahbub Ahmed, the top civil servant in Bangladesh's Commerce Ministry, fearing the loss of contracts that represent 60 per cent of their textile industry exports, pleaded with the EU to not take tough, punitive measures or "impose any harsh trade conditions" on Bangladesh to "improve worker safety standards" that would hurt the "economically crucial textile industry" and lead to the loss of millions of jobs.

On May 9, 2013 eight people were killed when a fire broke out at a textile factory in an eleven-story building in the Mirpur industrial district owned by Tung Hai Group, a large garment exporter. Sheikh Hasina, the president of the politically powerful textile industry lobby group, the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), told Reuters that "the Bangladeshi managing director of the company and a senior police officer were among the dead."

As of June 2014, efforts to improve safety were being coordinated under "an unprecedented comprehensive "Accord on Fire and Building Safety" ... Around 180 companies - mostly from Europe - international and local trade unions, Bangladeshi employers, exporters and government are part of this agreement." In addition, a "Bangladesh Alliance for Worker Safety - an association of 26 American companies including CAP and Wal-Mart" seeks to address these issues from an entrepreneurial standpoint, without participation of trade unions. Together the two groups "are responsible for inspecting around 2,100 factories over a period of five years." As of July 2014, progress had been made in inspecting about 600 factories. A spokesman stated that "Ten factories have been submitted to the Government Established Review Panel and most have been either closed completely or partially."
Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA)

Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) is a recognised trade body that represents export oriented garment manufacturers and garment exporters of the country. The fundamental objective of BGMEA is to establish a healthy business environment for a close and mutually beneficial relationship between manufacturers, exporters and importers, thereby ensuring steady growth in the foreign exchange earnings of the country.

BGMEA is being run by a 27-member elected Board of Directors. The Board of Directors is elected for a two-year term. Four Vice Presidents having important portfolios, along with a secretariat of experienced officials, assists the President in formulating and executing vital policies and programs of the organization. The President is the highest executive authority of the association. The Board of Directors takes assistance from different Standing Committees headed by a Chairman and composed of members having vast experience in the related fields. Strict adherence to democratic norms and code of conduct are being maintained in the BGMEA elections, which has been regarded as a trend setter in trade body elections of Bangladesh for its pre-election projection caucus and election-day discipline.The current president of BGMEA is Md. Atiqul Islam.
Effect of Trade Agreements on Textiles and Clothing Industry in Bangladesh

The United States introduced the Tariff Relief Assistance for Developing Economies Act of 2009 designated Bangladesh as one of the 14 least developed countries (LDC), as defined by the United Nations and the US State Department, eligible for "duty-free access for apparel assembled in those countries and exported to the U.S." from 2009 through 2019. The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), an industry lobby group, claimed that in 2008 alone Bangladesh paid "$USD 576 million as duty against its export of nearly $3 billion' mainly consisting of woven and knitwear.
McKinsey report (2011): Bangladesh as next hot spot, next China

Currently Bangladesh is now second largest ready-made garments (RMG) manufacturer after China, by the next five years Bangladesh will become the largest ready-made garments (RMG) manufacturer. Bangladesh was the sixth largest exporter of apparel in the world after China, the EU, Hong Kong, Turkey and India in 2006.[citation needed] In 2006 Bangladesh's share in the world apparel exports was 2.8%. The US was the largest single market with US$3.23 billion in exports, a 30% share in 2007. Today, the US remains the largest market for Bangladesh's woven garments taking US$2.42 billion, a 47% share of Bangladesh's total woven exports. The European Union remains the largest regional destination - Bangladesh exported US$5.36 billion in apparel; 50% of their total apparel exports. The EU took a 61% share of Bangladeshi knitwear with US$3.36 billion exports.

According to a 2011 report by international consulting firm McKinsey & Company, 80 percent of American and European clothing companies planned to move their outsourcing from China, where wages had risen, and were considering Bangladesh as the "next hot spot" making it the "next China"[29][46] offering 'the lowest price possible' known as the China Price, the hallmark of Chinas incredibly cheap, ubiquitous manufacturers, much "dreaded by competitors."
Li & Fung Ltd in the Bangladesh RMG sector

Bangladesh is second only to China in the supply chain of billionaire brothers Victor and William Fung's global sourcing giant Li & Fung Ltd,[48] a Hong Kong-based company. Bangladesh has been part of the producing network of Li & Fung Ltd since 1995, following Li & Fung Ltd's acquisition and subsequent expansion of an established British trading company, Inchcape Buying Services.[49] Li & Fung supplies dozens of major retailers, including Wal-Mart Stores, Inc., branded as Walmart.

In his chapter entitled Li & Fung, Ltd.: An agent of global production (2001), Cheng used Li & Fung Ltd as a case study in the international production fragmentation trade theory through which producers in different countries are allocated a specialized slice or segment of the value chain of the global production. Allocations are determined based on "technical feasibility" and the ability to keep the lowest final price possible for each product.

Major Western brands and retailers met in Germany in April for talks regarding Bangladesh building and fire safety setting a May 15, 2013 deadline for a joint agreement. By May 14, 2013 European companies which Europe account for about 60 percent of Bangladesh's clothing exports: United Colors of Benetton, Britain's Marks & Spencer, Sweden's H & M Hennes, Mauritz AB, Inditex SA, and one American company, PVH, which owns brands including Calvin Klein, had endorsed an accord.[48] but Wal-Mart Stores Inc and other companies affiliated with Li & Fung did not sign the endorsement. Following the April 2013 tragedy, Walmart's Rajan Kamalanathan, vice president of ethical sourcing for Walmart spoke with the press. Walmart hired "Bureau Veritas to inspect factories for structural, fire and electrical safety, including checking building designs and permits as part of an expanded inspection process" and is pressuring Bangladesh to close factories.[48]

Bruce Rockowitz, Li & Fung's group president and chief executive spoke to Li & Fung's group shareholders in Hong Kong on May 13, 2013 arguing Li & Fung Ltd should stay in Bangladesh, and "invest more and try to make safety better and work with the government on doing a better job on monitoring buildings.'

In January 2010 Li & Fung (Trading) Limited formed a new subsidiary company called WSG group, a dedicated sourcing stream servicing Wal-Mart globally, selling up to $2 billion worth of goods including WSG, home furnishings, apparel and other items, during the first year of the partnership. Li & Fung President Bruce Rockowitz, explained that direct sourcing is a huge, volume-driven, lower-margin business resulting in the lowest prices which is an advantage to Walmart. Li & Fung Ltd, a Hong Kong-based company, funnels clothes, toys and sporting goods to brand-name retailers including Kohl's, Target, Marks and Spencer and Talbots. Since 2006 Li & Fung control extended deeper into the supply chain to include logistics, production and product design effectively replacing and consolidated the role of middlemen.

Education in textile sector 'Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTex)' is the only public university specializing in textile engineering in Bangladesh .It was graduated from college in full flagged university on 22 December 2010 by an ordinance of Education Ministry and has a glorious history starting as a weaving school under British colonial rule in 1921. Now the University offers graduation courses in Textile Engineering, Industrial Production Engineering, Textile Management & Fashion design. 'Khulna University of Engineering and Technology (KUET)' has also started B.Sc in Textile Engineering from session 20122013.

There are Government and private Textile Engineering College under different universities which offers B.Sc. in Textile Engineering course including specialization in Yarn Manufacturing, Fabric Manufacturing, Wet Processing, Garments Manufacturing and Fashion Design. The institutions are as below:




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